![]() I vaguely remembered having to pay attention to the rotor direction when replacing it a few years ago. I was thinking about how a distributor could be "off". ![]() So I yanked it out to go exchange for a new one to be sure.ĪZ had to order a replacement, so I went to get some coffee and read. When I read your post, I was about to comment that I'd already ruled out the distributor unless it had catastrophic internal failure. Maybe I should check the distributor? I figure that adjusting the distributor isn't the culprit, since it should at least start.īefore I waste a bunch of time going in the wrong direction, what do you think is going on? Here's a link to a video - searching the web and youtube haven't shown anything like this. Also the alternator's only a few months old. Fuel filter was just replaced before I realized the timing belt was the issue. It's a new battery, and the connection is tight at both terminals. On the 'rwowr' the lights and stuff drop as though there's a power drain at that moment. (I did not take the time to get lbs, and as for plug 5, I figured if the valves were bad, more cylinders would be bad.) Had to make the most of a limited-time saturday afternoon!Ĭonnected the battery negative and when I turn the key the fuel pump makes its charge-up noise and it cranks, 'r - r - r - r' then makes a weird noise and stops. Everything new except the pulleys, though I did replace one of them due lots of whistling lately.īefore I reassembled past the timing belt, I stuck a compression gauge in the empty plug holes and proved that at least 5/6 of them had some compression. Have a great day! Can provide pictures & more if desired.ĭoh! Didn't read that I could try-start the engine earlier than this, but I reinstalled the timing belt, tensioner, plugs and wires, as well as the water pump, thermostat and all the front pulleys and belts. what should I use? (WD-40 is a penetrating oil which displaces lubricant, so I already know that's not the answer.) Second question: I used a spray bottle of water to wash out the timing area it was very effective! (It also confirms the mess was water/antifreeze but not engine oil.) But I should probably lube it all up so it won't rust. The Haynes only tells how to replace a good belt, and isn't very clear about what to do in the case of belt failure. I know the cams can be turned using a wrench on the bolt, it's just a question of whether I should do that to align for the new belt. I am pretty sure they should be closer to the 12 o'clock position, but before I screw something up, I wanted to see if someone's done this and how to best proceed. But now that everything's off, both camshaft gears point to the 9 o'clock position. I am 95% sure I got the crankshaft to TDC by checking for the compression cycle on piston 1. Maybe that leak aged the belt? My love of towing things probably didn't help much. ![]() Lots of belt particles on the timing covers! When I did the job before, I didn't get the water pump seal right, because ever since then, there was a slow antifreeze leak from the weep hole underneath the crankshaft timing gear. Tore the front end down and when I got the timing covers off, I found a very gunked up mess underneath with about half the teeth sheared off the belt. Yes the prognosis doesn't seem good regarding the valves, but I haven't gotten that far just yet. Now 80k miles later, figuring another change out was on the horizon, the belt broke while I was driving at highway speed while towing a light trailer. Also replaced the valve cover gaskets at the time, wow was that a (pain) adventure! Being an organized guy, I assembled instructions from all over my Haynes manual into a spreadsheet and executed it step by step. Thanks to y'all, I got great guidance on replacing my beloved 2000 X VG33E timing belt a few years back. Hello! I love this forum, and the redesign is great! ![]()
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